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Castrol EDGE 5W-30 5L Engine Oil $58.99 + Shipping ($0 C&C/ in-Store) @ Supercheap Auto ($50.14 via Pricematch at Mitre 10)

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Castrol EDGE Engine Oil - 5W-30, A3/B4, 5 Litre
Product Name Castrol EDGE Engine Oil 5W-30 5 Litre
Size 5 Litre
Oil Composition Full Synthetic
SAE 5W-30
ACEA ACEA A3/B4
API SL
BMW Longlife-01
Mercedes-Benz 229.5
Volkswagen Group (VAG) 502 00 / 505 00
Price match with Mitre10 (grab two) and stack with https://www.cheapies.nz/node/51443 = two for $50.28

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  • +3

    Interesting little factoid but if you have a Toyota Hybrid (and possibly others) a lot of them come from the factory with 0w16 for smaller cars, or 0w20 and recommend it over 5w30.

    Turns out 0w16 is both hard to get AND crazy expensive…unless, oddly, you buy 4L from the Warehouse of all places (my Sienta, and stuff like Aquas take 3.7L, so 4L is perfect):
    https://www.thewarehouse.co.nz/p/caltex-havoline-fully-synth…

    • +1

      Someone is going to love you for this.

    • The only 0w16 you can buy before was the Penrite one. Only Repco stocks them, super cheap auto doesn't. They used to have half price sales but it's getting pretty rare these days.

      If you live in the north island I think 0w20 is also fine. That is way more accessible.

      • Where have you seen 0W-20 for sale, and which brand? Thanks

        • Repco, super cheap auto etc. subscribe to their marketing emails so you would know when there is going to be a sale. Most big brands all have 0w20. Caltex, shell, Valvoline etc.

  • Curious to know how people use it. Do you drain the old oil out and put new oil by yourself? Or do you take it to garage and pay them labour to change it with your oil.

    • +1

      Yup DIY, heaps of YouTube videos to learn from, but you will require some tools. I’d try asking a neighbour to borrow some tools as a start.

    • +2

      Generic steps:
      Make sure you're car is warmed up (makes the oil come out easier)
      Make sure you have everything you need:
      A 6 point socket (and ratchet) that fits your drain plug
      A funnel (if you can't pour straight into your filter cap)
      Correct oil filter
      Correct standard oil (API spec, weight etc.)
      Sump plug washer
      Filter removal tool (maybe required)
      A drain pan
      Rags
      A jack and stands

      Jack up the front of your car (support it safely with stands)
      Chuck the drain pan under the sump
      Remove the plug (open the filler cap and place it on the bonnet catch so the bonnet can't shut to remind yourself to refill)
      While it's draining remove/replace the oil filter
      Clean the plug, replace the washer
      Once the sump has stopped dripping or is dripping very slow, refit the plug.
      Remove the drain pan.
      Let your car down.
      Refill the oil (either measure out in a jug or use the measurements on the side of the container.
      Check the dipstick once you're at full.
      Replace the oil cap.
      Start the car, make sure the oil light turns off.
      Check the dipstick, top up the oil as required (oil will have filled up the filter, so it'll be a bit low).
      Replace the lube sticker (you take it off the new oil container).
      Pat yourself on the back.

      • +1

        Also check that your engine might need priming some require steps like accelerated to the floor with the brake on until the engine light goes out others limit time limit that the oil filter is removed before the oil drains away from the pump just complicate things for a bit.

      • Get car ramps:
        https://www.repco.co.nz/tools-equipment/garage-tools-equipme…

        Get an oil pan (google places that will take used oil for free like supercheap etc):
        https://www.repco.co.nz/tools-equipment/garage-tools-equipme…

        These make changes easy.

        • I'd suggest car ramps are overkill and also tilts your car up (which will probably result in oil not draining entirely). I just use the included scissor jack, and when the oil draining stops I lower it and a tonne more oil comes out, then raise it again once it stops a second time.

          I did an oil change literally on Saturday and I spent maybe 10 minutes total under it. Three mins to pull the drain plug at the start, and seven minutes at the end to swap the filter and put the drain plug back in.

          My tool list for the whole job:
          Drain plug socket (from a socket set, but I think it was the 14mm I used)
          Filter removal tool
          Oil pan
          Rachet (also in the socket set) and extension (for the filter removal tool, but not always needed)
          Cardboard box opened and dropped underneath
          Disposable gloves
          Replacement crush washer
          Paper towels
          Funnel

          Plus the included jack, oil and filter.

          Old oil just goes back into the new oil container afterwards using the funnel (I had about 300ml of oil leftover, so I put that into another container and labelled it).

          • @danvelopment: most my cars oil bunghole is tilted to the angle of the car so it empties it pretty good. Also you dont need jack stands either (as someone shouldn't be going under a car on a jack).

    • Yeah it's a super easy job, one person can do the whole thing in 30 mins or less most of the time. If it's a Japanese or Korean econobox, you can pretty much assume it will be effortless.

      Some cars (especially Euro) make it more difficult, like my LS600h had a cartridge filter under a flap accessed from the bottom, so you needed a special tool to remove it, and my father's 2017 Smart ForFour required a (profanity) 8mm square piece for the sump plug (just too small for a 3/8 ratchet, just too big for a 1/4) so you have to special order it first, then they really hid the oil filter far back and recessed inside the block.

      Can get cheap oil/air/cabin filters, as well as parts from Singapore:
      https://www.fitinpart.sg/

      And a whole box of copper crush washers from AliExpress that will last you and all the cars you own for the rest of your life.

      Shipping is like $25 via Fedex and arrives in like 3 working days so it's worth stocking up on several things at once, but when an oil filter is like $6 then even if you don't bulk buy it's still cheaper than buying one locally.

      Worth jacking up your car and just having a physical look at the oil filter before ordering, my sister in law has a diesel Kia Carens and EVERYTHING, including Super Cheap Auto parts finder, overseas sources and others say her car has a cartridge filter but it has a huge spin-on and I've been tricked by it twice now (had to find the part number written on the side, then manually search via part number on fitinpart instead of via the car finder).

  • Apparently this oil, with an API rating of SL is only suitable for engines manufactured before 2004.

    https://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-c…

    Anything newer than that should be using API rating of SM, SN, SP (depending on age of your car). If your car was produced prior to 2004 then this oil should be fine, provided 5W-30 is the correct grade for your engine.

    • I would go with manufacturer standards over API. API don't make cars.

  • FWIW I can't find any Mitre10 stores in Auckland with this oil in stock. (for Price Match)

    • this one?(mitre10.co.nz)
      Showing available at all Auckland stores I looked at apart from Onehunga.
      Unless you’re referring to one of the oils mentioned in the comments above?

  • +1

    Thanks. Brought one.

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