This was posted 1 year 6 days ago, and might be an out-dated deal.

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TCL 55" C835 4K MiniLED QLED Google TV 2022 Television $1588 + $89 Shipping / $0 CC @ Noel Leeming

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This is a screamer of a deal due to new season releases announced last week by TCL.

I bought one a month ago for ~$2000, great TV for the money, especially so at 1500 bucks.

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  • Ohh, MiniLED, any issues with halo effect ?

    • It's definitely present but generally speaking I don't notice it that much. The only scene I noticed it badly was in finding Nemo when they swim in to the dark deep and the fish with the light chases them. In that particular scene it's quite bad, credit sequences look fine which can be bad with poor local dimming.

      I got mine on a pricing error for something stupid like $800 and it's amazing bang for buck. It's a good tv at the price point it's at now but at full rrp I would have gone OLED.

      • +1

        $800 is fantastic. I don't think I'd have any issues getting the ms over the line for that!

  • Also got mine at 800, for that absolutely worth it. Full price as evertt says above I would have gone a more mainstream brand. The latest update broke/removed functionality (no longer plays nice with my LG sound bar) which is really grinding my gears. However, Picture quality is epic and I like that it has both Dolby vision and HDR 10 plus.

    • Interesting you're having audio issues too. My amp is the primary issue not playing nice with DD+ over HDMI unless I switch inputs off then back, but my old tv I just used an optical connection instead which was fine, set to optical and it mutes the tv, problem solved.

      The TCL is absolutely not suited to optical output. There's no way to turn off the tv speakers, either you mute them which means you have a constant mute icon and for some unknown reason it then downgrades Dolby output to PCM stereo only. If you set it to 1 volume there's an echo. At one point I had a weird set up of using arc settings to fake to the tv I was using the HDMI output but then actually using the optical output. Even when it worked it was intermittent and occasionally would outright refuse to output 5.1 and revert to PCM stereo.

      Wondering if the random and sporadic PCM stereo thing might be linked to your problems. For now I'm just using HDMI and dealing with the buggy receiver, it's annoying but feels like the lesser evil of the multiple methods that don't work. I plan to upgrade to a nice soundbar when the one I want finds it's way on to cheapies.

      • +1

        Try plugging something into the TVs' 3.5mm headphone jack to stop the audio coming from the TV speakers. Even just the end of an old pair of headphones or any old 3.5mm adapter. I had the same issue with a Veon TV not long ago when using the RCA ports - it'd still play the audio through the built in speakers and there were no settings to disable them. The 3.5mm jack tricked the TV into thinking it was playing via headphones, but it still continued outputting sound via RCA. Might do the trick!

        • I might try that, but the pcm issue remains regardless. If it just won't output DD signal from time to time I can't rely on the optical port. Knowing the quirks of it forcing pcm sound I wouldn't be surprised to see headphones forcing it in to pcm output. There's no reason for nutting the tv to change the optical signal but it definitely does that.

          To be clear, my root problem is not the tv it's my receivers refusal to play DD+ that was present on my last LG tv too. But that problem is forcing me to try optical and that's where the tv isn't well thought out.

        • Had another play and found the closest solution is to turn off CEC entirely to remove control, then set the output to headphones(you don't need anything plugged in to do this). That seems to be outputting DD over optical with no sound out of the tv. It's still not ideal as I lose CEC functionality and need to remember to turn on the receiver and use 2 remotes but it is at least working.

          • @Everettpsycho: Thanks for the update. Glad you have a functioning solution!

          • @Everettpsycho: Another solution would be use Google TV or Amazon, pass through the Amp to your television I use that for my projector .

            • @pdevonporf: It's a bit on the old side the amp so can't handle 4K HDR which is why most devices are plugged in directly. Not an obvious way to get the best image and the sound working properly.

              We got the set up second hand a few years back for a really cheap price but I'm waiting for the new JBL bars to hit a good price and will be upgrading to an Atmos bar that can handle 4K 120hz and HDR as well as eARC. In ready but $1600 for the bar 1000 is more than I'd want to pay.

              • @Everettpsycho: I have the same problem with my 75 inch Sony 4k with an old Samsung DVD surround system without arc I just use the HDMI and optical and use a Amazon fire on the television and just use the Amazon remote. The remote infrared works the amp and also initiates startup on the Sony TV.

  • For $888, you can also get a similar tv at a slightly lower 120hz refresh rate. These tvs are running variable refresh rate so I assume it'll reduce the quality/clarity just like those games that has an option to use VRR? Or is the tv capable of running 144hz/120hz native refresh rate?

    • This is 120hz capable of ek not the dame 120 a lot of tvs advertised as things like trumotion.

      I think your understanding of VRR is off though. All games can run VRR as it's a system thing not the game itself. The problem is when a games refresh rate doesn't match the panel nicely you end up with tearing, so half of one frame and then some if the next frame, often what should be a straight line isn't because if this, it's similar to bugs in street view images. All VRR does is match the panel to the computers output and removes this issue, if you lock a game to 60fps on a 60hz panel it'll look ok, but VRR means you can ramp up to 120 and if your PC isn't solid and bounces between 120 and 100 on tougher scenes, then you won't get the tearing artefacts a non VRR panel would show. You shouldn't see quality dips but will see reduced frame rates, on a non VRR panel you can either deal with the tearing or rwduce the resolution/fidelity to maintain 60.

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