Recommend Any Apple Homekit Compatible Smart Plugs/Lights/Automation Kits?

I can only find the ones on Apple website and searching here I can see that Belkin Wemo isn't recommended.
Currently we have TP Link Kasa but the older one which doesn't work with Apple iphones. Other than that TP Link has been great.


  • Nanoleaf lights doesn’t need a base station. You can have them individually.

    If you are after lot of sensors, there might be zigbee based options like Aqara that support HomeKit.

    I’m using Nanoleaf and Aquara with HomeKit and no issues so far.

    • Thanks I'm looking for primarily smart plugs to connect the non-smart heater and turn them on/off via Hey Siri or Okay Google. Also the nanoleaf lighting is cool but wondering if there is any options for regular screw type/bayonet bulbs that could be controlled by homekit/google? I'll wait for nanoleaf to go on special as they do look cool.

      • Nanoleaf has regular bulbs with both screw types. I think they are cold Nanoleaf Essentials.
        I haven’t use smartplugs yet.

        • Thank you I'll take a look :)

        • I have MI smartbulbs which works fine with homekit. I think they work fine with Alexa as well, I had tried it a while back, but haven't used it much.

      • I also have 2 of TP Link Tapo P100 smart plugs which works fine with Home Kit & Home Assistant.

        Very happy with them, One of them is being used for my wfh desk with everything connected to it and switched ON during weekdays between 8.30 - 5.30. Saves me alot of hassle to switch off monitors, chargers etc.

        They are quite cheap with NL CSC discounts or check Amazon.

  • Philips Hue Smart Plug?
    compatible with homekit.

    Haven't personally used it but the rest of the Philips Hue stuff it pretty solid.

    • Thanks, they were on special on boxing day :( Should have bought some!

  • +1

    There are a few options.

    Buying a HomeKit compatible WiFi plug

    This is the easiest option, but choices are really limited - I could only find some off-brand devices, or “works with Siri”, which means everything would need to be routed through the app on your phone.

    Buying a non-HomeKit compatible WiFi plug, then using a bridge

    A lot of non-HomeKit compatible devices will work with a third party bridge. The easiest to use is HomeBridge, but Home Assistant is another option. This is pretty straightforward to setup, but you need either or server or a Raspberry Pi to host. For example, this is the plugin to connect TP-Link Kasa to HomeKit.

    Using a Thread or Zigbee plug, and using a bridge that’s HomeKit compatible.

    These devices tend to be more reliable. All require a “border router” or hub, but will create their own mesh network, so don’t rely on WiFi. They will have better range, and faster response times.
    Any smart home product that uses a bridge will use one of Thread, Zigbee, or Z-Wave. Philips Hue, IKEA, and a lot of Xiaomi products use Zigbee, while Nanoleaf and Eve use Thread. If you have an Apple TV 4K from 2021-on, you already have a Thread border router. For Zigbee, a Philips Hue bridge ($40 in Spark stores if you can track one down) provides HomeKit, Alexa, and Google Home support to most Zigbee devices.

    • +1

      Thanks, that is very helpful.

      First option: I have a TP-Link HS100 which isn't showing up on Homekit but @ace310 has a 'non apple certified' TP Link Tapo version of the same smart plug which shows up on Homekit - most straightforward way would be to go get this one as it works directly with Apple eventhough it isn't certified?

      second option: If the first option works, this option isn't required? Home Assistant looks pretty good however my technical skills isn't the best but I could try.. I have a windows server at home running various things so maybe add this to it..

      Third option: I have an apple tv 4k (the one with black touch remote) which soon to be replaced by the new one with dolby vision. So if I have an ATV, I don't need Philips Hue bridge or I still need the hue bridge?

      Thanks and sorry if any of the questions are dumb/basic - only getting my feet wet when it comes to power automation. Thought I had most of it set up but didn't know some of these options even existed!

      • Explore Home Assistant and you will be surprised what all you can do. Just run home assistant in virtual box on your windows machine and invest in zigbee network rather than wifi devices where you can.

      • The “easiest” option is to buy a HomeKit compatible plug, but I wouldn’t recommend it because (a) the plug you’re looking at isn’t certified, (b) setting up a bridge would allow you to buy any cheaper device in the future and add that to HomeKit without having to worry about compatibility later, and (c) you already own a server and the device, so it's free.

        Considering you already have a Windows Server, the easiest way is to use HomeBridge - it requires the least configuration and has the fewest dependencies. The plugin I linked in my first comment works for the HS100, so you could probably set this up in half an hour or so. You don’t need to use any code, and all configuration is through an easy GUI.

        HomeAssistant is a fair bit more difficult because you either need a dedicated system or to run it in a VM/Docker. For the purpose of running a HomeKit bridge, I’ve also found Home Assistant worse with specific devices. For instance, HomeAssistant exposes my Xiaomi air purifier as a fan, while HomeBridge exposes it as an air purifier. HomeAssistant’s main benefit is that it runs as a central automation platform itself, but it’s complex.

        The third one isn’t as straightforward. If you were buying Thread devices (Nanoleaf or Eve), the 2021 Apple TV 4K or the 2022 128GB Apple TV 4K with ethernet work as a router. For Zigbee devices (Philips Hue, Aqara, Samsung SmartThings, some Tuya, etc. - there are heaps cheap on AliExpress), you would need a separate Zigbee router. Some (the Hue Hub, Aqara gateway) are HomeKit compatible out of the box, or you could DIY (I use Zigbee2MQTT). Basically, if you run Thread devices, Apple TV alone works well. For Zigbee or Z-Wave, you need a separate dedicated bridge.

        It all sounds overwhelming, but it’s made a lot more straightforward with an application like HomeBridge.

        One last off-topic thing, and echoing ace310’s comment - if you expand your smart home, try to avoid devices that can only communicate through the cloud. A quick Google helps, but it’s best to avoid basic Tuya WiFi devices (including rebadged brands like Arlec, Brilliant, and most WiFi devices on AliExpress), and the basic Yeelight bulbs. Anything that uses the cloud will be slow to respond, and compatibility may change following unwanted software updates.

        • Thanks heaps I’m googling devices now, but slightly confused about what exactly to look out for in regards to not “ only communicate through the cloud”. By that do you mean I need to look for a specific cert or protocol support in its specs?

          Like for eg TP Link P100, it just says on specs that Google home and Alexa compatible and that it uses 2.4ghz wifi. How would I know p100 is not one of those “only communicate through the cloud” devices?

          • @mickey9876: This is a little harder to answer. WiFi is the most confusing protocol, as some devices will only authenticate through the cloud, while others allow local control. The difference is huge. If you're using Tuya, for example, you would have a couple of milliseconds latency to your bridge, then possibly a couple of seconds while the cloud receives your command, then sends it to your lights. If your internet or their servers have an issue, you lose control of your lights. With other brands, say Lifx or TP-Link, you have local LAN control - it will be a couple of milliseconds latency at most, because the command never needs to use the internet. As long as your WiFi works and your bridge is on, you're good.

            I tend to look for existing HomeBridge or HomeAssistant plugins before I buy a smart home device. If the plugin shows a local IP in the config, whether automatically or manually entered, you're usually good to go. Most devices have a combination of cloud login & local IP, as there is often a token generated through your cloud account that allows the device to connect.

            The TP-Link P100 is a good example. Searching the npm repository (you can Google it or access an easier interface through HomeBridge), I found this plugin. At the bottom it states "This plugin will also allow you to control the Tapo Plugs and Lights even if you have blocked the internet connectivity of the device". That was published nine months ago, so it's unlikely functionality would have been removed between then and now. That plugin is also for the EU/UK versions, but I'd infer they would use the same chipset between international variants for ease of support/code maintenance.

            For other protocols, it's more configuration to start with, then a lot more straightforward to check compatibility. With Zigbee devices, I use Zigbee2MQTT, and check their exhaustive list of supported devices.

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